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	Searches For....... Schiaparelli!

For many, her most creative and memorable designs were those that spanned the years prior to W.W.II. Her designs during that time period were ingenious, zany, fanciful, and fun. They brought a much needed relief from the dark undercurrent that was sweeping across Europe.  This gorgeous pin is a wonderful example of  early Schiaparelli. Also shown is the back of a matching bracelet, depicting the early Schiaparelli signature--lower case block lettering (Courtesy Lee Kalmus Collection).One of her most notorious pieces was a large clear Perspex collar embedded with all kinds of metal bugs, designed by Jean Clément, which made its debut in 1938. A picture of this collar appears in Fabulous Costume Jewelry on page 107. The essence of her creativity and individualism is captured in this brightly enameled fountain or chatelaine brooch (Courtesy Lee Kalmus Collection). The brooch is unsigned but has been attributed to Schiaparelli.  A similar brooch done in pink and green is pictured on page 112 of Amazing Gems . It is this pink and green combination that inspired the choice of colors for this web site. In her autobiography, Schiaparelli wrote, "I have launched myriad's of novelties, even when launching them was hazardous--tree bark, cellophane, straw, and even glass. And how many colors and colors and colors!" Indeed, in 1937, with the help of Clément, she created the color *Shocking Pink,* and it remained her signature trademark throughout her career.

The aftermath of the war brought a return to the conventional in the world of fashion, a reaction to the end of the chaos and instability of that time. Surrealism faded and the Bijoux Fantaisie created by Schiaparelli and her avant-garde collaborators was consigned to the annals of fashion history.

The post war years reflected both a need for a sense of stability, with simpler and more sculptured designs, and a desire for extravagance, a reaction to the forced austerity of the 1940s. Schiaparelli  celebrated with gorgeous parures made of large faceted and unfoiled stones and aurora borealis rhinestones. Many bracelets from this period through the early 1960s were 1 1/2-2" wide as shown by this link bracelet of large faceted oval stones in "smoky topaz." Earrings were often 1 1/2" in diameter or larger as in this this similar pin and earrings set with large blue glass ovals or this parure from my front page.

Color and texture are major themes in many Schiaparelli pieces.  Her extensive use of molded iridescent glass to form "sea shells", "moon rocks", and glass "flowers" or "leaves" give her jewelry a distinctly recognizable style, even without a signature. It is this era of Schiaparelli that I am currently searching for. I have a number of single pieces or *orphans* for which I would love to find matching pieces. One is this fabulous necklace of large sea green molded glass stones formed to resemble roses. These large stones are flanked by aurora borealis rhinestones and textured glass marquis. The setting is a gunmetal silver and the leaves display a lattice look that makes this particular piece my absolute favorite. I have acquired a matching pair of earrings, but I am still searching for a matching pin or bracelet.

This set is another favorite, and is a good illustration of Schiaparelli's use of textured molded glass "moon rocks." I am seeking a matching necklace for this lovely demi-parure.

Another favorite is this wonderful mint green parure. I have all of the pieces, but, unfortunately, one of the earrings is missing a molded glass stone. I am searching for a matching stone or for another pair of earrings to complete this parure. If you know where I can locate any of these matching pieces or other Schiaparelli of this genre, please email me at kimc@jstjewelry.com.
 

In 1949, Schiaparelli licensed her name to an American manufacturer who produced jewelry with her label. These pieces were marked with either her script signature and/or a trademark *Shocking Pink* dress form paper tag bearing her signature. Because of this, some Schiaparelli out there today is *unmarked*. If you become familiar enough with the composition of these pieces, you can still recognize it.

Schiaparelli sold the rights to both her name and business in 1973, but her innovative creations still inspire the hearts and lives of private collectors everywhere. As author Ginger Moro is fond of saying, "Viva Schiaparelli!"

Amazing Gems by Deanna Farneti Cera, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997.

Costume Jewelers, The Golden Age of Design by Joanne Dubbs Ball, Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1990.

European Designer Jewelry by Ginger Moro, Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1995.

Fabulous Costume Jewelry by Vivienne Becker, Schiffer Publishing Ltd, 1988.

Jewels of Fantasy edited by Deanna Farneti Cera, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1991.

Shocking Life Elsa Schiaparelli, E.P. Dutton & Co., Inc., 1954.

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